Key info

Must be a qualified: Mountain Leader
Registration is an application process and requires approval from Mountain Training UK & Ireland
Training: 2 x 5 days
Assessment: 5 days.

Average time from training to passing assessment: 4.6 years

Ideal for: Experienced mountaineers and rock climbing instructors who want to lead and instruct scrambling and multi-pitch rock climbing, including teaching lead climbing.

Entry requirements

Some amends to the prerequisites have been agreed and will be implemented between June 2026 and January 2028.

 

View the amends

 

To register
  • You must hold the Mountain Leader qualification.
  • You must have recorded on DLOG:
    • 20 quality mountain days as a Mountain Leader in a variety of mountain areas, with a variety of groups.
    • substantial climbing experience and provide evidence of 30 named multi-pitch rock climbs in at least three main climbing areas of the UK and Ireland. These must be climbs which you have completed leading at least the crux pitch, which must be VS 4c standard or above. These routes should illustrate your breadth of climbing experience*.
    • 10 led sport climbs at or above French grade 6a.
  • You must have a reference in the Referee tab of your DLOG, in support of your registration application.
  • Register for the Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor qualification (cost: £103)
  • On the ‘Share’ tab of your DLOG, click the ‘Send to MT’ button to let us know your DLOG is ready to be reviewed
  • Your logbook will be reviewed by a Mountain Training UK & Ireland technical officer – this can take up to 30 days
To book a training course
  • Your Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor registration must first be approved by Mountain Training UK & Ireland

To book an assessment course

  • You must have completed both Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor training courses
  • You must be familiar with the syllabus


Post training/training part 2 and before presenting yourself for assessment:

  • You must have logged a minimum of 20 multi pitch climbs at VS 4c or above, a large proportion of which should be on mountain crags and major sea cliffs
  • You must have logged a minimum of 20 quality mountain days in sole charge of a group
  • You must have logged a minimum of 20 rock climbing teaching days with a variety of climbers at a variety of venues
  • You must have a current first aid certificate, gained by completing an in-person (not online) course which involved at least two full days or sixteen hours of instruction and included an element of assessment.

*Rock climbing experience at registration:
The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor scheme is UK and Ireland orientated and the experience recorded should reflect this. While experience gained trekking or climbing in the High Atlas Mountains, for example, is undoubtedly valuable, it is not necessarily the most appropriate experience for the scheme. Mountain Training UK & Ireland is looking for both depth and breadth of experience since candidates who have only the minimum experience are unlikely to benefit fully from either the training or assessment course.

In general terms, successful applicants will have climbed at least 100 multi-pitch routes.

Candidates should bear in mind that the 30 routes must be multi-pitch (described as such in the guidebook and climbed as such) and must be at least VS 4c.

As a general rule, at least two-thirds of the routes should fall into the mountain/major sea cliff category. Moss Ghyll Grooves, Dream of White Horses and The Clean Sweep are examples of the type of route expected rather than short, contrived climbs that may be more technically difficult, for example, Merlin Direct at Tremadog.

There should be evidence of recent climbing experience.

Courses

 Training and assessment courses are delivered by Glenmore Lodge and Plas y Brenin. A variety of cost packages are available, depending on what's included (food, accommodation etc) so you can choose one that's right for you.

 

Training

Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor training takes place over two five-day courses.

 

Training Part 1 will cover:

  • Risk management and risk assessment.
  • Single pitch climbing - modelling good practice in all aspects of climbing and abseiling. 
  • The foundation skills of problem solving and improvised rescue. 
  • Mountaineering and scrambling introduction, including operating within and beyond the scope of a Mountain Leader, and short roping with one person.
  • Multi-pitch climbing - good practice while taking people climbing, making use of in series and parallel rope systems.
  • Navigation skills, including teaching navigation.
  • Advice and action plans for candidate practice between training courses - maintaining safety and maximising learning.

 

During the course, you will receive advice about appropriate experience to be gained ahead of Training Part 2, how to do this safely and how to maximise learning. This experience is not mandatory, however one of the benefits of the two course format is the opportunity to learn and embed skills progressively.

 

Training Part 2 will cover:

  • Teaching climbing - all aspects of guiding and teaching multi-pitch climbing including teaching lead climbing.
  • Mountaineering and scrambling progression - including managing two people on the rope in complex terrain.
  • Problem solving and improvised rescue skills on multi-pitch venues. 
  • Teaching scrambling and mountaineering. 
  • Advice and action plans for the consolidation phase and meeting assessment requirements while maintaining safety and maximising learning. Ideas for additional support, workshops and insurance.

 

Consolidation

The consolidation period begins after both training courses have been completed, use the feedback from your course director and the skills checklist (download below) to identify syllabus areas you need to practise. 

 

You can use the Effective Consolidation for Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor trainees course to help you make a plan for your consolidation period. The e-learning course is available for free to all MCI registrants and can be found in the e-learning area on tahdah.

 

Effective Consolidation for Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor trainees e-learning

 

 

Association of Mountaineering Instructors logo

Once both training course reports have been processed, you will receive an email offering you complimentary trainee membership of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) until the end of the membership year. Click the link in the email if you would like to accept the offer.

Association of Mountaineering Instructors offers trainee workshops and peer-led learning opportunities to help you during your consolidation phase.

 

Assessment

The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor assessment is five days long. You will be assessed against the syllabus competencies in the candidate handbook. At the end of the assessment you will receive one of three results:

  • Pass
  • Defer (requires a partial reassessment)
  • Fail (requires a full reassessment