Registration and assessment prerequisite changes for Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor

10.06.26

As the Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor Pathway Review draws towards a conclusion, Mountain Training UK & Ireland has agreed the following amendments to the registration and assessment prerequisites, to be implement as outlined in the table below.

The most significant change is including Rock Climbing Instructor + 20 days' RCI experience as a registration prerequiste. The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor qualification builds on the skills and experience of Rock Climbing Instructors, so it has long been an anomaly that Rock Climbing Instructor is not a registration prerequisite. This change will ensure candidates have a foundation of rock climbing teaching experience on single pitch crags before developing these skills in the multi-pitch environment.

For context, of the 564 candidates who have registered for Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor since 1st January 2015, only 63 have not passed SPA/RCI (11%). However, we are mindful that for some candidates this change will present an additional hurdle, so an appropriate, phased implementation plan will be devised to give candidates plenty of notice.

The remainder of the amends have been designed to steer candidates towards gaining more valuable experience, in particular roped scrambling experience prior to both registration and assessment.

In addition to the proposed changes outlined here, there will be improved and expanded guidance around gaining the required experience safely, especially in the areas of scrambling and teaching lead climbing.

The final piece of work yet to be completed is to address any syllabus amends before our attention turns to Winter Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor.

The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor Pathway Review working group

The working group has been led by John Cousins with help from Libby Peter, and includes representatives from Plas y Brenin, Glenmore Lodge, Tollymore and AMI. Mark Walker (MTE) has also been a valuable contributor.

Registration prerequisite amends:

Current	New
	You must hold the Rock Climbing Instructor qualification. Implementation: January 2028
	You must have delivered 20 sessions as a Rock Climbing Instructor at a variety of crags, with a variety of climbers. Implementation: January 2029
You must have substantial climbing experience and provide evidence of 30 named multi-pitch rock climbs in at least three main climbing areas of the UK and Ireland. These must be climbs which you have completed leading at least the crux pitch, which must be VS 4c standard or above. These routes should illustrate your breadth of climbing experience and must be logged in DLOG.	You must have led a minimum of 30 named multi-pitch trad rock climbs at VS 4c or above in three different climbing areas of the UK and Ireland. At least 20 of these climbs should meet the criteria of a quality multi-pitch climb.* Implementation: January 2027
	You must have led/alternate led (not soloed) 10 named scrambles at grade 2 or above, or long easy mountain rock routes with sections of scrambling. Implementation: January 2027

*Quality multi-pitch rock climb

A quality multi-pitch rock climb for the Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor scheme should take place on one of the big, significant cliffs in the UK and Ireland (see below for examples), or at climbing venues of equivalent scale and quality. These climbs should feel like mini-adventures - the ones you’ll remember for a long while.

All of the following criteria should be fulfilled:

Have led or alternate led all the pitches, including VS 4c minimum
A route with at least 3 pitches
A route with leader placed protection on all pitches and belays
Long or complex approach and/or descent

Repeat ascents and those completed while on a course or under instruction do not count towards the 30. However, all climbing experience should be logged to provide the complete picture of you as a climber.

Where to find quality multi-pitch climbs

There are hundreds of significant cliffs in the UK and Ireland, it would take several lifetimes to visit them all, but a Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor should have climbed at several of them, in particular those with a high concentration of classic or historic, long multi-pitch routes. They should have a remote feel or some complexity to the approach/descent, and require elements of planning, commitment and careful ropework.

Some examples include:

Scotland - Beinn Trilleachan (Etive Slabs), Hell’s Lum, Carnmore Crag, Sron na Ciche

Wales - Clogwyn Du’r Arddu (Cloggy), Craig yr Isfa, Gogarth- Wen Slab, Cadair Idris

England - Scafell Crag, Dow Crag, Chair Ladder, Bosigran

Northern Ireland and Ireland - Fairhead, Glendalough, Lough Belshade, Slieve Beg

Assessment prerequisite amends:

Current	New
Post training and before presenting yourself for assessment:	Post training part 2 and before presenting yourself for assessment:
You must have completed 20 quality mountain days as a leader in sole charge of a mixed ability group.	You must have completed 10 quality mountain days as a leader that include easy scrambling terrain AND 10 roped scrambles in the mountains as the leader as described below* Implementation: January 2027
You must have completed 20 rock climbing teaching days with students	You must have completed 20 rock climbing teaching days with a variety of climbers at a variety of venues Implementation: June 2026
You must have led 20 multi-pitch climbs at VS4c or above, a large proportion of which should be on mountain crags and major sea cliffs	You must have led 20 quality multi-pitch climbs at VS4c or above at a variety of climbing areas. Implementation: January 2027

*1 Mountaineering and scrambling experience between training part 2 and assessment

NB the consolidation requirement begins post Training Part 2. Providers will give advice to candidates regarding practice between training part 1 and training part 2.

Post training part 2 and before attending assessment, candidates should broaden both their leadership experience, and their personal experience of mountaineering routes and scrambles, whilst also keeping basic mountain skills, like navigation, well-practised.

A minimum of 20 leadership days in the mountains must be gained and logged, to include:

10 quality mountain days as a leader that include easy scrambling terrain.
These should take place on classic mountain routes and ridges up to grade 1 where a rope would not normally be required apart from occasional sections. They can be formal days with a group or informal with friends as long as you are the primary decision-maker.
10 roped scrambles in the mountains as the leader
These should be grade 2 or above scrambles or mountaineering routes with a mix of easy climbing and scrambling. Given the high risks inherent in some of the techniques involved (especially short-roping) the majority of this experience should take place with competent peers or other MCI trainees. Any practice with mock clients/inexperienced people must take place with only one other person on the rope, unless the trainee is under the supervision of a qualified Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor or British Mountain Guide.