Register
Key info

Must be a qualified: Mountain Leader
Registration is an application process and requires approval from Mountain Training UK & Ireland
Training: 9 days
Assessment: 5 days

Average time from training to passing assessment: 4.6 years

Ideal for: Experienced mountaineers and rock climbing instructors who want to lead and instruct scrambling and multi-pitch rock climbing, including teaching lead climbing.

Entry requirements

Register -> Record experience -> Book a training course [GIF]

To register
  • You must hold the Mountain Leader qualification.
  • You must have gained 20 quality mountain days as a leader since becoming a Mountain Leader, and logged them in DLOG
  • You must have substantial climbing experience and provide evidence of 30 named multi-pitch rock climbs in at least three main climbing areas of the UK and Ireland. These must be climbs which you have completed leading at least the crux pitch, which must be VS 4c standard or above. These routes should illustrate your breadth of climbing experience* and must be logged in DLOG.
  • You must have led 10 sport climbs at or above French grade 6a and logged them in DLOG
  • You must have a reference** in the Referee tab of your DLOG, in support of your registration application.
  • Register for the Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor qualification (cost: £95)
  • On the ‘Share’ tab of your DLOG, click the ‘Send to MT’ button to let us know your DLOG is ready to be reviewed
  • Your logbook will be reviewed by a Mountain Training UK & Ireland technical officer – this can take up to 30 days
To book a training course
  • Your Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor registration must first be approved by Mountain Training UK & Ireland

To book an assessment course
  • You must have completed a Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor training course
  • You must be familiar with the syllabus


Post training and before presenting yourself for assessment:

  • You must have logged a minimum of 20 multi pitch climbs at VS 4c or above, a large proportion of which should be on mountain crags and major sea cliffs
  • You must have logged a minimum of 20 quality mountain days in sole charge of a group
  • You must have logged a minimum of 20 rock climbing teaching days with students
  • You must have physically attended and completed (i.e. not online) a first aid course which involved at least two full days or sixteen hours of instruction and included an element of assessment

*Rock climbing experience at registration:
The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor scheme is UK and Ireland orientated and the experience recorded should reflect this. While experience gained trekking or climbing in the High Atlas Mountains, for example, is undoubtedly valuable, it is not necessarily the most appropriate experience for the scheme. Mountain Training UK & Ireland is looking for both depth and breadth of experience since candidates who have only the minimum experience are unlikely to benefit fully from either the training or assessment course.

In general terms, successful applicants will have climbed at least 100 multi-pitch routes.

Candidates should bear in mind that the 30 routes must be multi-pitch (described as such in the guidebook and climbed as such) and must be at least VS 4c.

As a general rule, at least two-thirds of the routes should fall into the mountain/major sea cliff category. Moss Ghyll Grooves, Dream of White Horses and The Clean Sweep are examples of the type of route expected rather than short, contrived climbs that may be more technically difficult, for example, Merlin Direct at Tremadog.

There should be evidence of recent climbing experience.

Courses

Training and assessment courses are delivered by the three national centres in the UK & Ireland: Glenmore Lodge, Plas y Brenin and Tollymore. A variety of cost packages are available, depending on what's included (food, accommodation etc) so you can choose one that's right for you.

 

Training

Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor training lasts for nine days and will cover:

  • The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor syllabus
  • What to expect at assessment
  • Feedback and areas to focus on prior to assessment

 

Syllabus

  • Personal summer mountaineering
  • Summer mountaineering instruction
  • Rock climbing instruction
  • Problem solving and rescue skills
  • National qualifications and local accreditation schemes
  • The mountain environment
  • Development and history of mountaineering
  • Assessment of risk and its application

 

Consolidation

After completing a training course, use the feedback from your course director and the skills checklist (download below) to identify syllabus areas you need to practise.

 

Association of Mountaineering Instructors logo

Once the training course report has been processed, you will receive an email offering you complimentary trainee membership of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) until the end of the membership year. Click the link in the email if you would like to accept the offer.

Association of Mountaineering Instructors offers trainee workshops and peer-led learning opportunities to help you during your consolidation phase.

 

Assessment

The Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor assessment is five days long. You will be assessed against the syllabus competencies in the candidate handbook. At the end of the assessment you will receive one of three results:

  • Pass
  • Defer (requires a partial reassessment)
  • Fail (requires a full reassessment
Resources
Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor candidate handbook
Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor skills checklist
Meet an instructor

Other qualifications

Doesn't sound like the right qualification for you? Consider the following:

Development Coach

Rock Climbing Development Instructor

Which qualification is is right for me?

Find a course